As Surf Europe put it: “‘Just paddle, take off, barrel, come out.’ It’s a simple but unarguable philosophy” — at least it is when you’re 17 year-old Matahi Drollet and grew up on a tropical island in French Polynesia.
This exceptional little edit from Hurley follows one of their up-and-coming surfers; Drollet surfs Teahupoo perhaps as well as anyone. The video winds through a progression of wave height and power—starting off at the paddle-in 6 footers all the way to 20+ foot tow-in slabs. Check out the ‘tippy-toe’ drop at 2:07, and the double barrel at 2:38 (no idea how Drollet passed the bodyboarder in the spray).
Comments